Pattern – US Crochet Terms

This delicate crochet cat is built around four five-petal flowers that form the center of the body. A simple chain-space framework connects the flowers, while the legs, tail, neck, and head are worked around the floral center.

Because this pattern is reconstructed from a crochet chart, the written instructions below are an adapted version designed to create the same overall shape and construction, rather than a literal stitch-for-stitch transcription of every symbol in the original chart.

Materials

• Fingering-weight or lightweight cotton yarn
• Crochet hook suitable for your yarn, approximately 2.25–3 mm
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Blocking pins

Gauge is not important for this project. A thinner yarn and smaller hook will create a more delicate lace appliqué, while thicker yarn will make a larger motif.

Abbreviations (US TERMS)

• ch – chain
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• tr – treble crochet
• sp – space
• ch-sp – chain space
• MR – magic ring
• rep – repeat
• FO – fasten off

Picot

Ch 3, sl st in the first ch made.

PART 1 – Crochet the Flowers

You will need 4 flowers.

Each flower has five elongated petals.

Flower

Make a MR.

Petal 1:
Ch 3, work 4 tr into the ring, ch 3, sl st into the ring.

Repeat the same sequence four more times:

[Ch 3, 4 tr into ring, ch 3, sl st into ring]

You should have 5 petals.

Pull the magic ring closed.

Sl st into the base of the first petal.

FO, leaving a short tail for weaving in.

Make 4 flowers total.

Beginner note

Do not make the center ring excessively tight until all five petals are finished. It is easier to fit all the tr stitches into the ring first, then pull it closed.

PART 2 – Arrange the Floral Center

Before joining anything, place the four flowers on a flat surface.

Arrange them roughly like this:

             FLOWER B

FLOWER A                 FLOWER C

             FLOWER D

Flower A forms the front part of the body.

Flower B sits toward the upper middle of the body.

Flower C forms the back/hip area.

Flower D sits toward the lower middle.

The flowers should not form a perfect square. The finished cat looks better when they are arranged in a loose diamond shape.

Leave small openings between them. These spaces are part of the lace design.

PART 3 – Join the Flowers

Thread a yarn needle with matching yarn.

Using only the outer loops of the stitches at the ends of the petals, make a few small joining stitches between neighboring flowers.

Join:

• Flower A to Flower B
• Flower B to Flower C
• Flower A to Flower D
• Flower D to Flower C

Do not pull the flowers tightly together.

Leave approximately one small chain-space worth of room between them.

Make only enough stitches to keep the arrangement stable.

This may seem unusual, but it makes the next step much easier and prevents the flowers from twisting while you crochet the body outline.

PART 4 – Create the Lace Framework Around the Body

Now we will crochet around the floral cluster.

Join yarn with a sl st to an outer petal of Flower A near the upper-left side of the body.

Body Outline Round

Ch 1.

Sc into the same petal.

Ch 3, sc into the next available outer petal or joining point.

Continue around the floral cluster using:

Ch 3, sc in next petal/connection point.

When crossing a slightly larger space between two flowers, use:

Ch 4 instead of ch 3.

Continue around the entire outside edge.

Your goal is to create a loose chain-space outline around the four flowers.

Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Important

Do not crochet around every individual stitch of every flower.

You are creating an open mesh framework, so attach mainly at the outer tips or outer edges of the petals.

The body should remain airy.

PART 5 – Shape the Back

The upper-right section of the body becomes the cat’s back.

Work across the chain spaces above Flowers B and C.

Join yarn to the first upper ch-sp.

Ch 3.

Work 2 dc into the same ch-sp.

In the next ch-sp:

2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc.

Work 2 dc in the next ch-sp.

Then:

Ch 2, sc in next ch-sp.

FO.

This creates a slightly raised, curved back rather than leaving the body completely flat across the top.

PART 6 – Front Leg

The first front leg begins underneath Flower A.

Join yarn to a lower ch-sp below Flower A.

Leg

Ch 9.

Starting in the 4th ch from the hook:

Dc in each remaining ch.

You will have a narrow strip of dc forming the leg.

At the end of the leg, work the paw.

Paw

Ch 3, sl st in the same st.
Ch 3, sl st in the same st.
Ch 3, sl st in the same st.

These three little loops create the toes.

FO.

Gently straighten the leg with your fingers.

PART 7 – Second Front Leg

Skip approximately one body ch-sp.

Join yarn to the next lower ch-sp.

Ch 9.

Starting in the 4th ch from the hook:

Dc in each remaining ch.

Make the paw:

[Ch 3, sl st in same st] 3 times.

FO.

The two front legs do not need to be perfectly parallel. A slight difference in angle gives the cat a more natural shape.

PART 8 – First Back Leg

Move to the underside of Flower C.

Join yarn to the first lower ch-sp.

Because the rear legs are slightly fuller near the body, begin with:

Ch 3.

Work 2 dc into the same ch-sp.

Ch 8.

Starting in the 4th ch from the hook:

Dc in each remaining ch.

At the end:

[Ch 3, sl st in same st] 3 times.

FO.

PART 9 – Second Back Leg

Join yarn to the next suitable ch-sp underneath the back of the body.

Ch 3.

Work 2 dc into the same ch-sp.

Ch 8.

Starting in the 4th ch from the hook:

Dc in each remaining ch.

Make 3 toes:

[Ch 3, sl st in same st] 3 times.

FO.

You should now have four legs.

PART 10 – Tail

The tail begins at the upper-right corner of Flower C.

Join yarn to the outermost upper-right ch-sp.

Ch 20.

The chain may look straight at first. The different stitch heights used on the return row will help it curve.

Starting in the second ch from the hook:

• Sc in next 3 ch
• Hdc in next 4 ch
• Dc in each remaining ch

Sl st into the same body space where the tail began.

For a slightly thicker base, work 2 dc into the body ch-sp before fastening off.

FO.

Optional curved-tip adjustment

If you want the end of the tail to curl more noticeably, work:

2 sc in each of the first 2 ch

when beginning the return row.

This naturally bends the tip.

PART 11 – Neck

The neck begins above Flower A, toward the left side of Flower B.

Join yarn to an upper ch-sp of Flower A.

Ch 3.

Work 2 dc into the same sp.

Ch 2.

Work 2 dc into the next upper ch-sp.

Ch 2.

Sc into the next connection point.

Do not FO.

We will continue directly into the head.

PART 12 – Head

The head is intentionally more solid than the body.

Head Foundation

Ch 4.

Sl st into the first ch to form a small ring.

Head Round 1

Ch 1.

Work 10 sc into the ring.

Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Head Round 2

Ch 1.

Work:

2 sc in next st, sc in next st

around until you have approximately 15 sts.

The exact stitch count is less important here than maintaining a small, slightly rounded head.

Join with sl st.

Do not FO.

PART 13 – First Ear

From your current position:

Ch 5.

Starting in the second ch from the hook:

• Sl st in next ch
• Sc in next ch
• Hdc in next ch
• Dc in last ch

Skip 1 st around the head.

Sl st into the next st.

This forms one pointed ear.

PART 14 – Top of the Head

Sc in the next 3–4 sts across the top of the head.

The exact number can be adjusted slightly depending on your tension.

You simply want enough room between the ears so they do not sit directly beside each other.

PART 15 – Second Ear

Ch 5.

Starting in the second ch from the hook:

• Sl st in next ch
• Sc in next ch
• Hdc in next ch
• Dc in last ch

Skip 1 head st.

Sl st into the next st.

Continue with sc around the side of the head until you reach the neck.

Sl st into the neck.

FO.

PART 16 – Shape the Muzzle

Join yarn near the lower-left side of the head.

Ch 1.

Sc in the next 2 sts.

Work 2 sc in next st.

Sc in next 2 sts.

Sl st.

FO.

Repeat on the opposite side if needed.

These small increases give the face the slightly wider cheek shape seen in the original motif.

PART 17 – Nose

Using a yarn needle and a short piece of yarn, make a tiny horizontal stitch near the center of the face.

Make one small vertical stitch underneath it.

Do not make the nose too large—the original design is very delicate.

PART 18 – Whiskers

Cut a strand of yarn and thread it onto a yarn needle.

Make 3 long straight stitches extending outward from one side of the muzzle.

Repeat on the opposite side.

Alternatively, for crochet-only whiskers, attach yarn beside the muzzle and work:

• Ch 5, sl st back to the face
• Ch 6, sl st back to the face
• Ch 5, sl st back to the face

Repeat on the opposite side.

The embroidered version is usually easier and looks cleaner.

PART 19 – Finishing

Weave in all loose ends carefully.

Because this motif contains many open spaces, avoid pulling the yarn ends too tightly when weaving them in.

The cat may look uneven immediately after crocheting.

That is normal.

Blocking

Lightly dampen the finished piece.

Place it on a blocking mat or folded towel.

Gently shape:

• the ears
• face
• back
• four flowers
• four legs
• paws
• tail

Pin everything into position.

Stretch the chain spaces only enough to open the lace pattern.

Allow the piece to dry completely before removing the pins.

Blocking is especially important for this project. It is what transforms the slightly irregular crochet piece into the clean cat silhouette.

Construction Summary

The finished motif is created in this order:

4 flowers → floral arrangement → body mesh → back → 4 legs → tail → neck → head → ears → face → blocking